Build a battlebot, publish it to the Arena, and fight your classmates.
Every bot has a 200 kg budget. The chassis, wheels, weapons, armor, and batteries all spend from it. Go over and you can't battle until you trim down. Watch the mass meter.
There is no single best bot. It is rock, paper, scissors. A hard-hitting spinner, a controlling wedge, and a tough armored brawler each have matchups they win and matchups they lose.
Everything is a trade-off. More weapon means less armor or speed. The Stats panel rates each part from Low to Strong and rolls them into one Overall Bot Score, so you can see at a glance where your build is strong and where it is weak. Tap any stat to learn what it does.
Dig deeper: can you just build a bot that is good at everything?
Good everywhere: yes. A heavyweight all-rounder around 150 to 170 kg can score Good in all four areas. Big wheels and a low gear keep its speed up, its mass gives it armor and ram power, and a real spinner with enough battery covers weapon and power.
Strong everywhere: impossible, on purpose. Acceleration rewards a light bot and armor rewards a heavy one, and no bot can be both at once. The 200 kg budget forces you to choose.
Balanced is not the same as best. An all-rounder has no weak spot, but it never reaches the extremes a specialist does. A true speedster out-runs it, a glass cannon out-hits it. It wins by having no hole, not by winning any single exchange. A high, even Overall Score means a solid build, not a guaranteed win. Driving and matchups still decide the fight.
Real battlebots
These are replicas of actual competition battlebots, here for reference. Drag to rotate, scroll to zoom.
Look for the design ideas from this guide on each one: a wedge to deflect and flip, a spinner for raw damage, heavy armor to survive. Notice how real builders combine them, and what they choose to give up to do it.
1Body
Low, wide, and heavy is steady. Tall and skinny tips over.
The wedge is the control shape: it deflects and flips, but only from the front.
Dig deeper
The wedge. A head-on hit does up to 60% less damage and launches the attacker up the slope. But the bonus only works in the front ~120° arc, so keep your nose on the threat. A side or rear hit is not deflected at all. A front-mounted weapon sticks out past the slope and takes the hits itself. It is a control playstyle, not a win button: a faster flanker, an overhead weapon, or another wedge that gets under first all beat it.
Gear ratio is a trade. High gear gives more torque (stronger push, quicker acceleration) but a lower top speed. Low gear is faster but pushes softly. Rammer wants high, speedster wants low.
Invertible keeps you fighting upside-down, at the cost of being 12% less nimble all the time. Worth it for a brawler that gets flipped, skip it on a speed bot.
A heavier chassis means more health, but it eats budget and slows you down.
Stats to watch:
Health. Your hit points. It is 2 per kilogram of total weight, capped at 300, so a heavier bot takes more hits to knock out.
Flip resistance. How well you survive a flipper. It rises when you are low and heavy. A flipper scoops under you, so a wide stance does not help here.
Footprint. A separate defense: how hard you are to shove or ram over. It rises with a wide, centered wheelbase. If your weight sits outside the wheels it warns TIP RISK.
Shove power. How hard you win a head-to-head push. It rises with mass and a higher gear ratio.
A wider stance is steadier. Bigger wheels are faster but tippier. Tracks are slow but tough.
Dig deeper
Wide wheelbase, hard to tip. Wheels tucked under the middle make a bot easy to flip.
Bigger wheels raise top speed but lift the center of mass (tippier) and add weight.
More wheels means backup. Lose one and you keep driving. Fewer wheels are lighter and quicker but fragile.
Wheels vs Tracks. Wheels are fast and agile but fragile. Tracks are slower and less nimble but tough, and they keep driving after taking damage. Pick tracks for a grinder that expects to get hit.
Stats to watch:
Top speed. How fast you can move. It rises with bigger wheels, a lower gear, and wheels over tracks.
Acceleration. How quickly you reach top speed. Lighter bots accelerate faster, so every kilogram you add makes you more sluggish off the line.
Flip resistance. Watch this drop when you fit bigger wheels: they raise your center of mass. Speed and stability pull against each other.
Turn rate (tracks only). Tracks turn noticeably slower than wheels, which is the price of their toughness.
Spinners hit hardest, but only at full speed. Wedges and arms control instead of smash. You have to aim.
Test it in the arena. The Stats panel predicts how a weapon should perform, but the real feel of it (how long the spin-up takes, how far it reaches, the split second to land a hit and back off) only clicks once you fight with it. Take every build to the Practice Arena and experiment before it counts. The arena is the best way to learn how your weapon really works.
Dig deeper
Spinner damage rises with the square of RPM. At half speed it does only a quarter of the damage. The blade glows hotter as it charges, so you can read how dangerous it is.
Spinners are hit and run. Spin all the way up, land one big hit, back off. A hit sheds its own RPM and it can't spin back up while grinding on someone, so trading constant contact is a trap.
Arms and flippers are control, not raw damage. Get under, flip, and shove rivals into the arena hazards.
Compound weapons stack parts for reach plus damage. You can mount one weapon on another, like a spinner on the end of a swinging arm or an extending ram (try the Spinner-on-arm starter bot). The arm reaches the spinner out past your chassis so you strike first, and each part keeps its own key: leave the spinner toggled on so it stays spun up, then just tap the arm or ram to lunge and hit.
The trade for a compound weapon is weight and power. Every part you add carries its own mass, and a spinner left running keeps draining the battery, so watch your budget and your Sustained run. And because the arena caps how fast a bot can take damage, a compound weapon wins on reach and control, not on stacking extra DPS.
Do not overdo the weapons. You can bolt on several, but each one needs its own control key, and juggling three or four of them mid-fight is more than most drivers can actually steer and aim at once. They also all pull from the same battery, so the more weapons you run, the faster it drains and the sooner they brown out. One or two weapons you can aim well beat a pile you cannot.
No weapon one-shots a healthy bot. Landing more hits beats hoping for one giant hit. A weapon pointed the wrong way does nothing.
Stats to watch:
Weapon DPS. Damage per second at full speed. Around 50 reads as Strong. Remember it falls off fast below full RPM.
Time to KO. Roughly how many seconds of clean hits it takes to finish a typical bot (it is 100 divided by your DPS). A handy reality check on a weapon.
Ram damage. How hard you hit by driving into someone. It is your mass times your top speed, so heavy and fast both help.
One weapon is enough. The arena caps how fast any bot can take damage, so a second weapon adds reach and coverage, not double the DPS.
Armor blocks hits where it covers. It is heavy, and it does not add to your health.
Dig deeper
It only protects where it physically covers, and only at the right height. A plate floated high or sunk as a deep skirt misses ground-level hits. Armor the side you lead with.
Armor breaks. Enough hits knock a plate off and expose the chassis behind it.
Its weight does not add health. It shields your core, it does not make the core tougher. Over-armor and you are just slow.
Hazards ignore armor. The arena saws and launchers still punish a pure turtle, so armor alone does not win.
Stats to watch:
Knockback resist. How easily you get shoved around. It rises with total mass, and armor is mass, so a well-armored bot holds its ground better.
Health. Watch that adding armor does not raise this. Health comes from chassis weight, not armor. Armor shields your core, it does not grow it.
Collision radius. Your physical size. A bigger bot is an easier target to land hits on.
Looks only. Make your bot yours and easy to spot in a crowded arena.
Dig deeper
Purely cosmetic. Color, finish, patterns, wheel styles, decals, and underglow change nothing about the fight and touch none of your Stats.
Quick win: add a name sticker and a color scheme so you can find your bot at a glance.
6Power
Your weapon runs on the battery. If it drains faster than it charges, your weapon dies mid-fight.
Dig deeper
Recharge refills, the weapon drains. Drain faster than recharge and you brown out: the spinner winds down right when you need it.
Match batteries to the weapon's appetite. A hungry, fast spinner needs lots of recharge or a big reserve. A light weapon barely needs any.
Power costs weight, which is weight you can't spend on weapon, armor, or speed. The budget game again.
Stats to watch:
Battery. Your energy reserve for firing weapons. Around 200 reads as Strong.
Recharge. How fast that reserve refills, in units per second. This is what keeps a weapon fed during a long fight.
Sustained run. How long your weapons can fire nonstop before browning out. It reads unlimited when your recharge keeps up with the drain. A few seconds means your weapon dies mid-fight. This is the single most common mistake.
Cell
Weight
Reserve
Recharge
Best for
Light
2 kg
22
2.5/s
A wedge or rammer (barely draws power)
Standard
5 kg
50
4.5/s
A small or medium spinner, run nonstop
Fast-Charge
7 kg
50
10/s
A big, hungry spinner, run nonstop
Capacitor
10 kg
125
3/s
A hammer or flipper: huge reserve for bursts
Heavy
13 kg
95
5/s
Big reserve and steady recharge in one slot
Which cell for which weapon:
Spinner: recharge wins. A spinner draws about half its own weight in power every second at full speed (a 9 kg blade pulls about 4.5/s, an 18 kg blade about 9/s). To spin nonstop, your recharge has to keep up with that draw. Standard (4.5/s) keeps a blade up to about 9 kg spinning forever; a bigger or hungrier spinner wants Fast-Charge (10/s). If the Sustained run stat does not read "unlimited," your recharge is losing the race and the spinner will brown out mid-fight.
Hammer, flipper, ram: reserve wins. These fire in short bursts and recover between swings, so what matters is having enough stored power for several hits, not a fast trickle. Pick Capacitor (125) or Heavy (95) and let it refill between strikes. A hammer is the hungriest weapon while it is actually swinging, but only for that split second.
Wedge or pure rammer: go Light. Driving never uses the battery, only weapons do. If your bot wins by shape and shoving, a Light 2 kg cell frees up weight for armor and speed.
Capacitor is a trap for spinners. Its giant reserve is tempting, but 3/s recharge cannot feed a spinner for long. It is built for one big hammer blow, not a weapon you hold the trigger on.
Need more of both? Stack cells. Power adds up: two Standards give 100 reserve and 9/s recharge. Add cells until Sustained run reads "unlimited" at a weight you can afford.
Your bot can fight on its own. In the Brain tab you give it Rules, like "When the enemy is ahead, fire."
No typing. You pick from menus: When something happens, do an action. Add as many rules as you want.
Test it in the practice arena. The Brain tab has its own practice arena right beside your rules. Watch your bot drive and fight, see what each rule does, and fix anything that looks wrong before you battle for real.
Dig deeper
One brain, four views. Rules is the bottom rung of a ladder: Rules → Easy Blocks → Blocks → Code. Build with Rules cards, then slide up to see the exact blocks, and then the real JavaScript, that your rules wrote. It is the same brain the whole way up, so it is a gentle on-ramp from clicking menus to writing real code.
What your bot can sense. Where the enemy is (ahead, to the left or right, behind, close, or far), how much health you have left, whether you are flipped over, and how charged your spinner is.
What your bot can do. Drive (forward, slow, back, or stop), turn (left, right, or straight), fire your weapons, or stop your weapons.
Rules run top to bottom, and the lower one wins. Put your "always" rules (like "always drive forward") up top and your "when the enemy is..." rules below them, so aiming and reacting override the default.
Combine two conditions with AND or OR. "When the enemy is close and my spinner is charged, fire" holds your shot until it will actually hurt. "When I am badly hurt or flipped, back away" reacts to either one.
Stop my weapons is its own action. Use it to save battery (stop firing when no one is in front) or to stop hurting yourself (stop the spinner while you are flipped).
A good brain is usually small. Aim at the enemy, fire when it is in front, back off when hurt. Three or four solid rules beat a tangle of twenty. Add one rule at a time and test after each.
You do not have to use a brain at all. You can drive your bot yourself with the keys. The brain is for bots that fight on their own, which is how tournament and unattended matches run.
Stay under 200 kg. Every part is a trade-off. You can't max everything.
Pick one strategy (hard-hitter, controller, or tank) and build the whole bot around it.
Stay upright, keep your weapon powered, and aim well. That beats a glass cannon that flips over or browns out.
Give it a brain (optional). Rules let your bot drive and fight on its own. Start simple: aim, fire when the enemy is ahead, back off when hurt, then add more.
Experiment, then iterate. The arena is the real teacher. Build, take it to the Practice Arena to see how your weapon and brain actually behave, then fight, see what beat you, tweak, and re-publish.
Make it fight on its own: open the Brain tab and start with Rules (step 7 above). The practice arena right beside the rules lets you watch it learn.